MORE THAN ANY OTHER PART of this book, I could not have written this chapter without the women in my life—my grandmother, my mother, my wife, and my daughters. As I mentioned before, my mom and grandmother didn’t have a lot of money, but they sure knew how to cook. And while my grandmother didn’t write down any of her recipes, my mom observed a bit of her cooking and carried on some traditions. I did my best to re-create their best dishes here—you’ll taste the magic in the mac and cheese and the collard greens.
The rest of the recipes in this section are ones my wife, Nena, and I make at home. My wife is a great cook in her own right, and when it comes to cooking for our four daughters, we are a team. Nena is very close to her family on the Meskwaki Settlement and brings a lot of her Native American heritage into our household through cooking. You’ve got to try her Fry Bread (see here)! She and my daughters are also the masterminds behind some of my favorite barbecue complements: Big Mama’s Potato Salad (see here), Candied Yams (see here), and Smoked Ham and Butter Beans (see here). You’ll find a lot of heritage in these sides, from Black-Eyed Peas With Sausage (see here) to our family’s Cornbread Stuffing (see here). Trust me: These sides are all about big flavors.
My hope is that you find a recipe in here that becomes one of your family’s heirlooms.
Big Mama’s Potato Salad
• Makes: 16 (1-cup) servings
• Prep time: 30 minutes
• Total time: 1 hour
INGREDIENTS
5 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes
Kosher salt
1 dozen hard-boiled eggs, chopped
2 cups whipped dressing (such as Miracle Whip)
1½ cups finely diced red onion
1 (16-ounce) jar sweet pickles, drained and chopped
1 (10-ounce) jar sweet pickle relish
1 tablespoon yellow mustard
1 teaspoon celery seed
1 teaspoon ground pepper
Sweet paprika
DIRECTIONS
1. Peel and cut potatoes into 1-inch chunks. Place in a large pot, and add enough water to cover by 2 inches. Stir in a few generous pinches of salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium. Simmer until potatoes are fork tender, about 20 minutes, then drain. Spread cooked potatoes on a baking sheet to cool.
2. In a large bowl, stir together eggs, whipped dressing, onion, pickles, relish, mustard, celery seed, and pepper until combined. Fold in cooled potatoes—be careful not to overmix. Sprinkle lightly with paprika for color.
Sweet Vinegar Slaw
I PERSONALLY DIG vinegar-based slaws because they have a lighter, cleaner flavor and are crisper than a mayonnaise slaw, retaining more of a crunch. My top tip is to hold off assembling the dish until right before you are ready to serve. It keeps the crunch longer.
• Makes: 12 servings
• Prep time: 15 minutes
• Total time: 1 hour 20 minutes
INGREDIENTS
1 head green cabbage, shredded
½ head purple cabbage, shredded
1 sweet onion, thinly sliced
1 large carrot, peeled and grated
1 cup sugar
1 cup apple cider vinegar
²/³ cup canola oil
2 teaspoons sea salt
2 teaspoons ground mustard
2 teaspoons celery seed
1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
DIRECTIONS
1. In a large bowl, combine green and red cabbage, onion, and carrot. Cover and park it in the fridge.
2. In a saucepan, whisk together remaining ingredients. Continuously stir over low heat until sugar is dissolved. Do not heat past this point. Remove from heat, and set aside to cool.
3. Once cooled, pour over cabbage mixture, and toss until evenly distributed. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour before serving so flavors can blend.
Quick Tip
Save time by shredding the cabbage using the grating blade on a food processor.
Cason Collards
TIMING IS EVERYTHING with collard greens. They need to be soft but not mushy, firm but not crunchy. Cason Collards are savory, spicy, and never ever bitter or sour.
• Makes: 12 servings
• Prep time: 25 minutes
• Total time: 3 hours
INGREDIENTS
3 (32-ounce) cartons chicken stock
1 tablespoon Pork Rub (see recipe, see here)
1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
2 large smoked turkey legs
6 bunches collard greens (3½ pounds)
¼ cup kosher salt
¼ cup white vinegar
1 pound bacon
2 large yellow onions, diced
6 celery stalks, diced
6 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
DIRECTIONS
1. In a very large pot, combine chicken stock, Pork Rub, and red pepper flakes. Place turkey legs in liquid, then bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cook until meat is tender and starts to fall off the bone, about 45 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, prep the collard greens. Fill a clean sink halfway with cold water; add salt and vinegar. Place greens in water and swirl around gently to release any grit. Remove leaves one at a time, folding in half lengthwise and removing stems; discard stems. Place leaves in a colander to drain. Stack leaves flat on a cutting board a few at a time, roll them up, then slice into 1-inch strips.
3. In a large skillet, cook bacon over medium heat until fat renders, 6 to 8 minutes. (Do not burn!) Remove bacon, reserving drippings in skillet. Cool bacon slightly, then coarsely chop.
4. Stir onions, celery, and garlic into hot bacon drippings, and cook until softened, about 5 minutes.
5. Once turkey legs are tender, remove from pot. Cool slightly, then shred meat and return to pot. Discard skin and bones. Transfer onion mixture to pot. Stir in chopped bacon and greens. Bring to a boil, reduce to a low simmer, and cook, covered, until greens are tender (soft but not crunchy), 1½ to 2 hours.
Jalapeño Cornbread
• Makes: 8 servings
• Prep time: 15 minutes
• Total time: 1 hour 5 minutes
INGREDIENTS
¼ cup vegetable oil, plus more for pan
1¼ cups yellow cornmeal
¾ cup all-purpose flour
¼ cup sugar
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon baking soda
3 large eggs, beaten
1 (14.75-ounce) can creamed corn
1 cup shredded cheddar cheese
¾ cup whole milk
½ cup minced yellow or white onion
1 jalapeño pepper, seeded and chopped
DIRECTIONS
1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Grease a 9-inch round baking pan.
2. In a large bowl, add cornmeal, flour, sugar, baking powder, salt, and baking soda, and mix well. Stir in remaining ingredients and ¼ cup oil (do not overmix).
3. Pour batter into prepared pan, and bake until golden and a wooden pick comes out clean, 35 minutes.
4. Let cool for 15 minutes before serving.
Fried Cabbage and Bacon
• Makes: 8 servings
• Prep time: 10 minutes
• Total time: 40 minutes
INGREDIENTS
1 (12-ounce) package hickory bacon, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 large yellow onion, chopped
1 carrot, peeled and julienned or grated
1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
1 medium-size head green cabbage (3 to 3½ pounds), cut into 1-inch pieces
4 cloves garlic, chopped
2 teaspoons Pork Rub (see recipe, see here)
DIRECTIONS
1. Cook bacon in a large skillet over medium heat until just browned, about 8 minutes. Transfer to a plate using a slotted spoon; reserve drippings in skillet.
2. Sauté onion, carrot, red pepper flakes, and fennel seeds in hot drippings until veggies start to soften, about 5 minutes.
3. Add cabbage, garlic, and Pork Rub, and cook, stirring often, until cabbage is tender, about 15 minutes. (Add cabbage in batches, if necessary.) Stir in bacon.
Quick Tips
Remember to open up the fennel seeds with a rolling pin or can before cooking. Use the large holesof a box grater to quickly grate the carrot.
Lightly Battered Fried Morels
IF YOU KNOW, YOU KNOW. And if you don’t know, then you gotta learn. Morels are the King Kong of mushrooms. Period. Keep it simple and keep a close eye on these boys so they don’t burn. They’re buttery and nutty with a crunch. You can’t go wrong with these.
• Makes: 4 servings
• Prep time: 15 minutes
• Total time: 45 minutes
INGREDIENTS
12 ounces fresh morel mushrooms
1½ cups all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1 tablespoon store-bought Big Moe Cason Beef Rub, plus more for dusting
½ cup salted butter
DIRECTIONS
1. Wash and prep morels, then pat them dry with paper towels.
2. Place flour, cornstarch, and beef rub in a large resealable bag. Close bag, and shake until blended.
3. Add mushrooms to bag in batches (about 5 or 6 at a time), seal bag, and toss to coat. Carefully shake any excess flour off morels, and place them on a wire rack.
4. In a small skillet, melt butter over medium heat. Working in batches, cook morels in melted butter, turning every couple of minutes, until golden brown, 5 to 7 minutes. (Do not overcrowd the skillet.) Place fried morels on a plate lined with paper towels to cool while frying the remaining mushrooms. Eat ASAP.
Moe Cason Baked Beans
I LIKE TO THINK OF MY BAKED BEANS as a meal in and of themselves. They’re versatile, full flavored, and a hit whenever I bring them out. I want each bite of my baked beans to be just as good as the last one, so I make sure that the onions are diced small and mixed evenly. Nothing is worse than getting a mouthful of big ol’ onion!
• Makes: 12 servings
• Prep time: 15 minutes
• Total time: 2 hours 15 minutes
INGREDIENTS
1 (32-ounce) can pork and beans
1 (32-ounce) can plain baked beans
1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
¹/³ cup store-bought Big Moe Cason I-80 Sauce
¼ cup packed light brown sugar
¼ cup Pork Rub (see recipe, see here)
¼ cup honey
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
2 tablespoons molasses
2 teaspoons hickory liquid smoke
1½ teaspoons yellow mustard
DIRECTIONS
1. Prepare an indirect fire in a smoker, and preheat to 250°F.
2. In a large bowl, combine all ingredients. Transfer to a 12-inch cast-iron skillet or large disposable aluminum pan.
3. Place pan in smoker; cover and cook for 2 hours, stirring occasionally.
Fry Bread
WE LOVE THIS SERVED WITH HONEY or preserves, with soups or stews, or as a substitute for tortillas with tacos. This recipe honors my Indigenous mother-in-law, Audrey, God rest her soul. It takes a village to raise kids, and she was the foundation, the blueprint of a beautiful soul. Her traditions were handed down to my wife and are being carried on with our girls.
• Makes: 8 pieces
• Prep time: 20 minutes
• Total time: 1 hour
INGREDIENTS
3 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for kneading and dusting
2 teaspoons sugar
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 cup whole milk
Lard
DIRECTIONS
1. In a large bowl, whisk together flour, sugar, salt, baking powder, and baking soda until combined. Slowly add milk, stirring until a sticky dough forms.
2. Sprinkle flour on a clean work surface. Turn out dough onto surface, and knead, sprinkling with more flour, until dough is no longer sticky. (Do not overwork.) Put dough back in bowl, and cover with a clean kitchen towel. Let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes.
3. Melt enough lard to reach 1 to 2 inches in a cast-iron skillet and heat to 350°F. Dust your hands with flour, and pinch off a golf ball–size piece of dough. Keep remaining dough covered. Shape dough into a 6- to 7-inch round disc using your hands. (It’s okay to have thin areas or a slight tear.) If your bread doesn’t tear naturally, cut a small slit in center of the round so bread cooks evenly.
4. Carefully lower dough round into lard. Fry on each side until puffy parts are golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Drain on paper towels (do not stack on top of one another).
Candied Yams
CANDIED YAMS ARE A THANKSGIVING CLASSIC that we make year after year. They’re a warm and sweet bite of fall, with soft, buttery yams in spices and sugar. Don’t forget to sop up the syrup with some bread!
• Makes: 8 servings
• Prep time: 15 minutes
• Total time: 1 hour 30 minutes
INGREDIENTS
¾ cup salted butter, melted
½ cup packed dark brown sugar
¼ cup packed light brown sugar
1½ teaspoons ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1 teaspoon ground allspice
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
½ teaspoon ground cloves
3 large yams, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
DIRECTIONS
1. Prepare and preheat a smoker to 350°F.
2. In a large bowl, combine butter, both sugars, cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, vanilla, and cloves until smooth. Add yams, and fold into mixture until fully coated. Transfer to a grill-safe metal pan, and cover with foil.
3. Place pan in smoker; cover and cook until yams are easily pierced with a knife, about 1 hour. Let rest at least 10 minutes before serving.
Opt for the Oven
If you don’t feel like firing up the smoker, you can bake the yams in a 350°F oven instead.
Hot Pepper Mac and Cheese
WHEN YOU HAVE people lying down on the floor after eating this mac and cheese, you know it’s legit. For the best results, shred your own cheeses rather than using packaged shredded cheeses.
• Makes: 16 servings
• Prep time: 10 minutes
• Total time: 1 hour
INGREDIENTS
1 (16-ounce) package elbow macaroni
3 large eggs
1 cup heavy cream
1 cup sour cream
1 (12-ounce) can evaporated milk
1½ teaspoons Chicken Rub, plus more for sprinkling (see recipe, see here)
4 tablespoons good-quality salted butter (such as Kerrygold), cubed
24 ounces pepper Jack cheese, shredded
1 (16-ounce) block sharp cheddar cheese, shredded
DIRECTIONS
1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Grease a 13-x-9-inch baking dish.
2. Cook elbow macaroni according to package instructions until almost al dente (the cooking process will finish in the oven); drain and return to pot.
3. Whisk together eggs, heavy cream, sour cream, evaporated milk, and Chicken Rub in a large bowl.
4. Add butter and pepper Jack cheese to cooked macaroni, and mix until evenly distributed. (Don’t worry if the cheese is not melted. It will fully melt in the oven.)
5. Transfer macaroni mixture to greased baking dish, using a spatula to evenly spread it. Slowly pour egg mixture on top. Top with cheddar cheese. Lightly sprinkle more Chicken Rub over top, if desired.
6. Bake, uncovered, until browned and bubbly, 30 to 35 minutes. Let cool for 15 minutes, and serve while hot and creamy.
Black-Eyed Peas With Sausage
• Makes: 12 servings
• Prep time: 10 minutes
• Total time: 1 hour 45 minutes, plus soaking overnight
INGREDIENTS
1 pound dried black-eyed peas
1 pound ground hot Italian pork sausage
1 large onion, diced
1 celery stalk, diced
4 cloves garlic, diced
¼ cup all-purpose flour
2 (32-ounce) cartons chicken stock
1 tablespoon Pork Rub (see recipe, see here)
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon ground pepper
1 bay leaf
DIRECTIONS
1. Rinse black-eyed peas in a colander under cold running water, and transfer to a bowl. Add water to cover, then soak overnight in refrigerator.
2. In a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat, cook ground sausage, breaking up meat with a wooden spoon, until browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Add onion, celery, and garlic, and cook for 5 minutes. Add flour, and cook until slightly browned. Add 1 carton chicken stock.
3. Drain peas. Mix peas, Pork Rub, salt, pepper, and bay leaf into sausage mixture. Add more chicken stock, if needed, to cover peas completely. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer gently until beans are tender, 1 to 1½ hours.
4. Transfer a ladleful of peas to a bowl, and smash with a fork. Return smashed peas to pot, and cook until liquid thickens. Add remaining chicken stock to reach desired soupiness, if needed. Discard bay leaf. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed.
Red, White, and Green
• Makes: 8 servings
• Prep time: 20 minutes
• Total time: 1 hour
INGREDIENTS
2½ pounds small red potatoes, halved
Kosher salt
3 tablespoons good-quality salted butter (such as Kerrygold)
6 slices thick-cut bacon
1 large yellow onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 pound fresh green beans, trimmed
2 cups chicken stock
1½ teaspoons Chicken Rub (see recipe, see here)
Freshly ground pepper
DIRECTIONS
1. Place potatoes in a large Dutch oven with cold, salted water to cover. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Boil until potatoes are fork tender, about 15 minutes. Drain, place in a serving bowl, and gently toss with butter.
2. Meanwhile, cook bacon in Dutch oven over medium heat until crisp, about 8 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel–lined plate, reserving drippings in Dutch oven.
3. Add onion and garlic to hot drippings, and cook over medium heat, stirring often, until starting to soften, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in beans, chicken stock, Chicken Rub, and a few large pinches of salt. Cover with a lid, and bring to a gentle boil. Cook until beans are bright green and crisp-tender, about 10 minutes.
4. Coarsely chop bacon, and add to cooked potatoes. Add green bean mixture to potatoes, and gently toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.
Grilled Acorn Squash
• Makes: 12 servings
• Prep time: 20 minutes
• Total time: 1 hour 50 minutes
INGREDIENTS
3 large acorn squash (4½ to 5 pounds), halved and seeded
¾ cup packed light brown sugar
3 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1½ teaspoons ground nutmeg
1½ teaspoons ground cloves
¾ teaspoon kosher salt
3 teaspoons vanilla extract
¾ cup cold salted butter, cut into 2-tablespoon pieces
DIRECTIONS
1. Prepare and preheat a smoker to 250°F.
2. Slightly score flesh of each squash (a few lengthwise cuts will do).
3. In a small bowl, whisk together brown sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, and salt until blended. Sprinkle mixture evenly into each squash cavity, then pour ½ teaspoon vanilla into each half. Add 2 tablespoons butter to each squash.
4. Wrap each squash in aluminum foil, poking a hole in center of each for ventilation.
5. Place in smoker; cover and cook 45 minutes. Unwrap squash, and return to smoker. Cover and cook until squash is tender but still firm, about 45 minutes.
Moe’s “Ur So Cheezy” Corn
THIS IS A PERFECT EXAMPLE of a dish that is extremely simple and extremely delicious. I have been making this for years when I cater and vend. It sells out all the time, and it makes a great pair with my baked beans, too (see see here).
• Makes: 12 servings
• Prep time: 15 minutes
• Total time: 1 hour
INGREDIENTS
1 (32-ounce) package frozen corn kernels, thawed
¼ cup diced cooked bacon
1 jalapeño pepper, seeded and minced
2 heaping tablespoons Pork Rub (see recipe, see here)
1 cup salted butter, at room temperature and cut into large cubes
1 (8-ounce) block cream cheese, at room temperature and cut into large cubes
DIRECTIONS
1. Prepare and preheat a grill or smoker to 250°F.
2. In a bowl, combine corn, bacon, jalapeño, and Pork Rub until blended. Fold in butter and cream cheese. Transfer to a grill-safe metal pan, and cover with foil.
3. Place pan in smoker; cover and cook for 1 hour. Remove from grill, and stir until cream cheese and butter are melted and mixture is smooth.
Smoked Ham and Butter Beans
• Makes: 8 servings
• Prep time: 25 minutes
• Total time: 2 hours 10 minutes, plus soaking overnight
INGREDIENTS
1 pound dried butter or lima beans
¼ cup bacon drippings (from about 1 pound bacon)
3 cups diced smoked ham
3 stalks celery, diced
1 medium-size yellow onion, diced
1 carrot, peeled and grated
6 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
1 tablespoon Pork Rub (see recipe, see here)
1 teaspoon dried sage
1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
1 (32-ounce) carton chicken stock, plus more if needed
1 bay leaf
Kosher salt
DIRECTIONS
1. Rinse beans. Place in a large bowl, and cover with 2 inches of cold water. Soak overnight in refrigerator.
2. The next day, drain beans. In a large Dutch oven, heat bacon drippings over medium heat. Stir in ham. Cook, stirring occasionally, until browned, about 5 minutes. Stir in celery and next 8 ingredients (through black pepper). Cook, stirring occasionally, until veggies are tender, about 10 minutes. Stir in flour, and cook 1 minute. Add chicken stock, scraping bottom of pot to release any browned bits. Stir in beans, bay leaf, and a couple large pinches of salt.
3. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to low, and simmer until beans are tender and sauce thickens, about 1½ hours. Discard bay leaf. Season to taste. We like this served over rice with a side of cornbread.
Cornbread Stuffing
THIS STUFFING IS PERFECT FOR FALL. It’s a classic my wife grew up with, and she now makes it for our girls. Bake, scrape, and enjoy.
• Makes: 12 servings
• Prep time: 20 minutes
• Total time: 1 hour 25 minutes
INGREDIENTS
1 recipe Jalapeño Cornbread (see recipe, see here)
1 medium-size loaf day-old French bread (about 12 ounces)
½ cup salted butter, melted, plus more for dish
2 medium-size yellow onions, chopped
5 stalks celery, chopped (about 2 cups)
6 cloves garlic, chopped
1 tablespoon poultry seasoning
2 teaspoons ground sage
1 teaspoon ground pepper
½ teaspoon kosher salt
1 (32-ounce) carton chicken stock
3 large eggs
DIRECTIONS
1. Place one oven rack in top third of oven and a second rack in center. Preheat oven to 250°F.
2. Cut both bread loaves into bite-size cubes (about 1 inch). Spread cornbread cubes on a baking sheet and French bread cubes on a second baking sheet. Brush with half of melted butter. Bake on top oven rack until golden, 30 to 45 minutes, and let cool. (If your baking sheets won’t fit on one rack at the same time, place one on each oven rack and rotate them halfway through to ensure even toasting.) Increase oven temperature to 350°F.
3. Add remaining butter to a Dutch oven over medium heat, and add onions and celery. Cook until softened, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in garlic and next 4 ingredients (through salt), cook for 1 minute, remove from heat, and let cool.
4. In a large bowl, whisk together chicken stock and eggs. Once veggie mixture is cool to touch, stir it into stock mixture. Slowly fold in bread mixture. Transfer to a greased 13-x-9-inch baking dish.
5. Bake on center oven rack until golden brown, about 30 minutes.
